London's less-than-lovely history - Kris

Question of the week: With Halloween on the horizon, is there a particular episode from London's history that gives you the shivers?

"Possibly the most bloody and haunted place in London is the Tower of London. Since it was built in the 11th century it has the home of kings and criminals. William the Conqueror started building it in 1080, and was his London home. Castles were multi-use buildings, though, and the first documented prisoner held in the Tower arrived in 1100.

The tower was always a place of public execution, even (possibly especially) for the royal family. During the Wars of the Roses, Henry IV died there, as did his nephews, the 'Princes in the Tower'. Other well-known deaths at the Tower include Sir Thomas More and the two of Henry VIII's wives that were executed (Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard). Lady Jane Gray, who was Queen for nine days, and Mary, Queen of Scots were other victims of the executioner's blade. The tower continued to be a place of torture and execution until it held its last prisoners during the Second World War. A number of German spies were executed there, ending in 1941, and Hitler's Deputy Führer, Rudolf Hess, was held there until the end of the War.

There have been many ghost sightings at the tower, including Arbella Stuart, cousin of King James I, and a phantom bear!

If you want to learn more about the Tower of London, and its horrible past, check out their website."
- Kris

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Want to read more? Related books in the LUP Library include:


Tower of London, the : 900 years of English history by Kenneth J. Mears

Building of London : From the conquest to the great fire, by John Schofield
and many of the guidebooks in the London Focus collection.

* Photo by Miss Alice, used under Creative Commons.

London's less-than-lovely history - Ric

Question of the week: With Halloween on the horizon, is there a particular episode from London's history that gives you the shivers?

"If you have an interest in the history of Catholicism and Protestantism in London, especially since the sixteenth century, then you should visit a place called Tyburn. All that remains of this terrible place is a marking on a pedestrian island in the middle of Marble Arch junction, immediately north of Hyde Park. It was the location, for many years, of a famous set of gallows (named 'Tyburn Tree') used for hanging religious non-conformists, including many Roman Catholics, as well as forms of criminal activity.

If you cannot find the mark on the road itself, why not visit the Covent and Shrine of the Tyburn Martyrs across the road from Hyde Park? For more information, and directions, see their website. ( A sister is available for guided tours of the Shrine daily at 10.30am,3.30pm & 5.30pm daily. HOLY MASS : Sundays, weekdays and Holydays: 7.30am. All are welcome)

Finally, for those interested in the history of religious persecution in London our chaplain, Fr John Dickson and I will be conducting a dusk tour of some sites relating to this on Wednesday, 9th of December. The walk will begin at the London Centre and end at K-M. Time to be announced!"

- Ric

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Want to read more? Related books in the LUP Library include:

Hanging in judgement : Religion and the death penalty in England from the Bloody Code to abolition by Harry Potter
and for Tyburn's later use as the most famous location for the execution of highwaymen,
1700 : Scenes from London life, by Maureen Waller.
as well as a vivid fictional portrayal in the film Plunkett & Macleane

* Photo by Lawrence OP, used under Creative Commons, with thanks.

London's less-than-lovely history

Question of the week: With Halloween on the horizon, is there a particular episode from London's history that gives you the shivers?

"Another obvious entry in the annals of horrible history has to be Jack the Ripper, who set off a wave of prurient panic in the Victorian newspapers in 1888, while getting away with the bloody murder of at least five, and maybe as many as eleven, prostitutes in London's East End before melting back into the shadows. Contemporary conspiracy theories ranged from unhinged surgeons to the Prince of Wales' son, Prince Albert Victor!

There are hundreds of books and websites exploring the murders and the world around them, not to mention inspiring novels, movies, and a brace of competing walking tours. (Personally, I like London Walk's version.)"
- Miss Alice

Want to read more? Related books in the LUP Library include:

East end chronicles, by Ed Glinert, London's underworld : Three centuries of vice and crime, by Fergus Linnane, and Victorian underworld, by Donald Thomas.

* Photo by I'veBeenThere!, used under Creative Commons, with thanks.

London's less-than-lovely history - Miss Alice

Question of the week: With Halloween on the horizon, is there a particular episode from London's history that gives you the shivers?

"If you're looking for Halloween horrors, Bethlem Insane Asylum during the 16th and 17th centuries has to make the list. Its reputation for cruelty, callousness, and corruption followed the hospital from it's original home, now buried under Liverpool Street Station, to it's next incarnation in Moorfields. The word 'Bedlam', meaning noise and chaos, is coined from its name.

The glamour and elegance of late seventeenth and eighteenth century fashions take on a rather different cast when you remember that many of those who could afford it would pay a penny to peer at the incurable insane in their cells, even poking them with sticks if they were insufficiently entertaining.

Thomas Tryon complained in 1695 about the public being admitted on holy-days:

"It is a very undecent, inhuman thing to make... a show... by exposing them, and naked too perhaps of either sexes, to the idle curiosity of every vain boy, petulant wench, or drunken companion, going along from one apartment to the other"

In 1815 the hospital moved again, and, as attitudes to insanity changed became a less hellish place. Nowadays is a respected psychiatric hospital on yet another site in south London, but those horror stories about patients being chained up, beaten, starved, and neglected, and then treated as a freak-show linger on in popular memory. "
- Miss Alice

Want to read more? Related books in the LUP Library include:

Mind-Forg'd Manacles : A history of madness in England from the restoration to the regency, by Roy Porter
and
Most Solitary of Afflictions: Madness and Society in Britain, 1700-1900 by Andrew Scull.

* Image: Hogarth's Rake's Progress #8

Break week

Back soon...

"Our students are on break this coming week, and so is the blog. We'll be back next Monday. Wishing our students a great break and safe journeys."

* Photo by jsgrites, used under Creative Commons.

Favourite places in Europe - Miss Alice

Question of the week: what's one of your favourite places to visit in Europe?

"It's probably not somewhere you'd base a whole trip around, but if you're ever in Reims, look into getting out to the nearby village of Verzy, or, more specifically, the forest above the village. 'Les Faux de Verzy' refers to both the forest and the beautiful twisted trees found here. Scientists are yet to conclusively establish what causes the mutation, which folktale pins on witches or gnomes - and you can see why!"
- Miss Alice

* Photo by me

Modes of transport - Ric

Question of the week: what's your favourite way of getting about?

"Rather predictably, I feel, my response is going to be BIKES!

The list of organisations and companies ready to offer you bikes for
rental or bike tours is extensive. Bikes are for hire in London and in Paris. Even as the days get shorter, my advice is wrap up warm with a good pair of gloves and see Europe at a more leisurely pace. Some of the best ways to see smaller cities and towns in the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and Scandinavia is by bicycle."
- Ric

* Photo by aloxe, used under Creative Commons.

Favourite places in Europe - Dr Holt

Question of the week: what's one of your favourite places to visit in Europe?

"I'll categorize my reply to the assignment, my favourite European place, by listing one of the places I would go if I were able to get there --

I would return to Ravenna, Italy, located on the east coast of Italy, a few hours south of Venice and east of Florence -- and so very do-able to include Ravenna on a Rome-Florence-Venice itinerary.

Why? To see the mosaics again.

During the reign of Octavianus Augustus (Caesar's heir) Ravenna was developed as a military harbour that guaranteed the defence of the Adriatic and the eastern shores of the Empire. By 402 CE the fleet had left when the Emperor Honorius made Ravenna the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Like Venice (now approximately 2 hours north) Ravenna was surrounded by swamps that served as a barrier to invaders. Indeed, for the next few centuries Ravenna was the capital of an invaded empire, enriched by imperial and churchly patronage. And -- the benefit for modern visitors -- the extraordinary churches and other buildings with their unimaginably rich mosaic decorations have remained unchanged and in superb condition.

Go to see for yourself the Basilica of San Vitale, the Basilicas of Sant'Apollinare in Classe and Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, and even the Baptistery of the (heretical) Arians. You'll marvel at what 5th and 6th century artists could do -- these photos of spectacularly beautiful mosaic interiors can only hint at what it is like to be inside, surrounded by 360 degrees of such beautifully varied decoration."
- Dr Holt

* Photos by antiquite-tardive and Sebastià Giralt, used under Creative Commons.

Modes of transport - Miss Alice

Question of the week: what's your favourite way of getting about?

"I love train travel - to me it seems like the most civilised way of getting about, especially now you can take the Eurostar and get almost anywhere in continental Europe by rail. No faffing about getting to airport, much less of that 'hurry up and wait stuff' that makes taking the plane such a pain, no lost luggage, no extra charges for daring to have a suitcase, and when you get there, you're actually there - slap bang in the middle of your destination city, not in some airport several miles outside.


It's a little late to be posting for National Poetry Day, which was last week, but The Night Mail has to be a contender - it's a classic 1930's documentary film, following the mail train from London to Scotland narrated by Auden's poem of the same name (the dvd is in the library, if any of my students are reading) Isn't it magical?

The BBC did something similar in the 1950s and again in the 80s, with a time-lapse journey from London to Brighton, which is less lyrical, but still hypnotic. The modern version? How about London to Glasgow in 5 minutes.

Practical stuff? nationalrail.co.uk is your one-stop-shop for times, routes, and ticket prices for the UK (when you get to the booking stage, pick one of the rail companies, who don't charge you fees on top, and not trainline.com, who do) and for Eurostar, eurostar.com.

Some people rate air travel for glamour, but me, I'll take the train. It's not all about Victorian nostalgia, either - although I can't imagine how anyone can not be moved by the soaring architecture of the big Victorian terminus station. Yes, it's great to be able to sit and watch the countryside roll past outside your window, but one of the reasons I love train travel is that it's productive time for me. I get really travel sick in cars and on coaches, but on a train I can read, or write, or, if I'm on one of the swish 21st century trains, plug in my laptop, fire up the wifi, and spend a couple of hours getting on with stuff - and watching the country roll past outside my window."
- Miss Alice

* Photo 1 by will likes tea and biscuits, used under Creative Commons. Photo 2 by me.

London's Markets - Miss Alice

Question of the week: can you tell us about one of your favourite London markets?

"When I'm looking to stock up on cheap, quality fruit and veg, I head up the District line to Queen's Market, near Upton park tube station, which I'm glad to say is still fighting off plans to re-develop the space as posh flats instead of leaving it as a thriving local market.

When I'm looking for a real foodie treat, though, you can't beat Borough Market: London's ultimate farmer's market - it's over-crowded and recommended everywhere for a very good reason!

Personal favourites include The Tomato Stall's oak roasted tomatoes (perfect with some fresh mozzarella from L’Ubriaco's, either cold as antipasto, or over pasta) and Flour Power City's Potato & Rosemary Sourdough bread. Oh, and the guy who sells nothing but multi-year-matured unpasteurised cheddar, and the middle eastern stall with the perfect harissa, and Pie Minister's pies, and Dark Sugar's truffles, and ... you get the picture!

You'll find Borough Market between London Bridge tube station and the river, and it's open Thursdays: 11am - 5pm, Fridays: 12pm - 6pm and it's busiest day, Saturdays: 8am - 5pm

For Queen's you'll want Upton Park station, and they trade Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 9 - 6"
- Miss Alice

* Photo by tonylanciabeta, used under Creative Commons.

London markets - Cornelius O’Boyle

Question of the week: can you tell us about one of your favourite London markets?

"On a crisp Saturday morning in autumn, there’s no better London market to explore than Ridley Road Market. Today, it is best known for its exotic African bush meats and fruit, as well as African fabrics, arts & crafts, and other produce. But the market also still contains many stalls reflecting Dalston’s rich history as a centre for various immigrant Jewish, Greek and Turkish communities. And the great thing about Ridley Road Market is that, because it is slightly off the beaten path for the average tourist, the market has maintained its authentic atmosphere as a place serving the needs of its local communities. This is a genuine “outside of Zone 1” London experience!

Getting there is much easier, now that the mainline station of "Dalston Kingsland" is part of the "Overground" line on the London Underground. Alternatively, you can take Bus number 243 from Old Street Tube Station and ride up Kingsland Road to get a good view of a large part of the East End of London."
- Cornelius O’Boyle

* Photo by bareknuckleyellow, used under Creative Commons.

London markets - Kris

Question of the week: can you tell us about one of your favourite London markets?

"If you're looking for something to do near the flats around lunchtime, head to Leather Lane and check out the market - it's the closest market to the flats, and it has something for everyone! Stalls range from fruit & veg, to bags, to toiletries, and it was voted the best market for fashion by Time Out! (Daddy Donkey was also recommended as one of the best burritos in London - but go early as there's always a long line!)

Leather Lane starts later than most markets - it really gets going around 11am, and things tend to wind up around 2pm, as a lot of people from the surrounding offices visit during their lunch hour. It runs Monday through Friday (except Bank Holidays).

To get there from the flats: Turn left out of the gate, turn right on Clerkenwell (as if you were going to the London Centre), then it's the third street on the left. You'll be able to recognize it by all of the stalls on both sides of the street (and the street sign on the corner). When the market is on the street is blocked off from traffic, so don't be afraid to wander down the middle and take everything in."
- Kris

* Photo by jenlen, used under Creative Commons.

London day trip - Kris II

Question of the week: Can you recommend a second London day-trip?

"Of the many palaces in London, my favourite is Hampton Court. Building started in 1514, by Cardinal Wolsey, who lost the palace (and his life) to Henry VIII in 1530. Much of Hampton Court still looks similar to the way it did in Tudor times, the kitchens especially. Henry's children Edward VI, Mary I and Elizabeth I all spent time at Hampton Court, as did the Stuart kings. After the Restoration, William and Mary made major changes to one wing of Hampton Court, providing it with the 'split personality' it still has today (half-Tudor, Half-Baroque).

For me, the best part about visiting Hampton Court is that I always seem to discover something new - the hedge maze is wonderful, but there's also a 'real tennis' court, where you can watch people play tennis as it was played since the 16th century. (Lawn tennis is a relatively recent, 19th century, invention.) If you go on the right weekend, you can see people cooking in the Tudor Kitchens, and taste what they make! Also, if you're looking for something to get you in the Halloween spirit, there have been many reports of hauntings - the most famous ghost is that of Catherine Howard, Henry VIII's fifth wife; people staying at the Palace have reported screams coming from the Haunted Gallery, and many people have reported that the room 'doesn't feel right'. It is believed that Catherine was dragged back to her rooms through the gallery after she was sentenced to execution for treason in 1541.

Hampton Court is easy to get to - take the train from Waterloo! Hampton Court is the last stop, so when the train doesn't move any more, get off and start your adventure!

Check out http://www.hrp.org.uk/HamptonCourtPalace/ for more info."
- Kris

* Photo by Fred Dawson, used under Creative Commons.

London day trip - Miss Alice II

Question of the week: Can you recommend a second London day-trip?

"From the modern to the historical, gracious Kenwood House in North London is a total contrast to yesterday's Dockland's trip. The house is by neoclassical architect Robert Adams, the grounds influenced by the great English landscape gardener, Humphry Repton, while the galleries display works by Rembrandt, Turner, Reynolds, Gainsborough and Vermeer. Even the location is classy, between Hampstead Heath and Highgate Cemetery, with panoramic views back over London, in case you need to be reminded that you are not out in the countryside after all.

You may want to plan your visit to Kenwood House around the tour schedule at Highgate Cemetery(select 'visitors' and scroll down), in order to get the most out of your time in this historic area.

You could also stop off at the 18th century Flask Tavern on your way between to two, to raise a glass to Hogarth and Marx, both of whom were reputedly regulars here. "
- Miss Alice

* Photo by dezzography, used under Creative Commons.